translation - button

Since we have no time to write the articles in 2 or 3 languages, we put a translationbutton on this blog.  You find it in the menu at the right.

Dado que no tenemos tiempo para en los artículos 2 ó 3 idiomas para escribir, ahora hay un botón de traducción en el blog. Lo puedes encontrar en el menú de la derecha.

Mystic Dunes, translation

Johan went playing at the Mystic Dunes in Iqiuque. For the paraglider of you well known. He had a wonderful day, but came home with a torn paraglider :-(.

The school was not happy with it and asked a tidy sum for damages. For us, too much so .... moment's thought, negotiated and ... do it yourself. it took  some time getting used to, because it is long since I pulled out my riggingcompetencies  yet. The head of the school really did not believe that I would get it ready: A half day work and the new cel was fixed. Voila, repaired and no cost, whew!

Iqique Translation

Five days we live in this little oasis of Flypark.

Little practice, little fly, the bike repaired, a bit lazy, ....


There is not much more to tell, it's very quiet here. The hotel is barely populated Flypark so we really enjoy this cozy atmosphere. We are very well received by the owner Philipand the staff . Who ever comes to Iqique, this is certainly a fine address to stay and / or flying.


Moreover, we have here an unexpectedly pleasant reunion, Michel and Claudie, 2 friends of the Grande Africa camping here 1 km away. Yesterday we almost collided with their VW returning from the paragliding site. Later we go catch up with a fresh pint and a glas of wine!

translation Mendoza - Bolivia

After our ride along the Aconcagua we hang around in Mendoza. We visit the paragliding club, without being able to fly and do the same at the skdiveclub. At  the first we can not rend propre equiment, and the second we say thank you, because of the price. 30 euro for 9000 ft. from a Cessna 182. That's not worth it to us.
In Mendoza we meet soul mates, Mathias and Christina, both traveling with a F650 GS DAKAR and follow roughly the same route as us. We are experiencing some nice evenings together before they move on. Undoubtedly we will find eachother again.
Then a few quiet days in the vineyards of Mendoza and rough and rugged landscape! We want to visit the Valle de la Luna, known for its erosion and beautiful stone and rock formations. Unfortunately, the night before our visit there is a tunderstorm and the road to the most beautiful formations is closed.
Through the R40 it goes a little back south to the direction Rodeo. The road is deceptively good. It undulates up and down in beautiful asphalt, until I see Johan return with 4 pinkers on. In a descent, the road sis uddenly full of mud, stones and water. Johan took it at full speed, but I do slowly. This kind of obstacles is normal after heavy rain storm, so we're the next few hours extra  careful.


At the junction of R40 and the road to Rodeo, we get an invitation  to stay in Canada, Vancouver, or if we want a winterhousse in Whisller. Nice offer! Peter and Paul are 2 retired twin brothers who, like us (back) riding back to Canada. We chat on the side of the road and then everyone's going our way. The invitation? we keep it warm.
Rodeo is a little village about 200 km off the Chilean border (also one of the last villages to the border). There is a beautiful lake in the middle of the stage where a lot of rock formations where you can surf & kite (it is called here also Cuesta del Viento). There is a nice relaxing surf atmosphere.

And then on to Paso Aqua Negra. More than 200 km ripio, at 4725 meters altitude. The weather is beautiful, the temperature is perfect for this ride. It is a bit "boring", but this is really indescribable. Nothing but rock, rock, gletserwater that rumbles down, steep cliffs and quiet. The road is well maintained, but it remains to watch out for unexpected changes in the surface, you do not want to ffall here and wating  with broken bones  for help! We'll picnic still above 4000 meters, filling our camelback with pure gletserwater and then continue. If we just after 7 o'clock in the evening past the Chilean border post driving, waiting for us a 80 km drive on good asphalt, completely in the shade so we will not be blinded by the sun. Here we can even let go! And then, suddenly on the rough rocky mountain walls appear the first Chilean vineyards near large cacti, you do not understand how something can grow, but they are grapes for this delicious Chilean wines.
We found just before dark a nice quiet campsite with pool and ride the next day to La Serena, a medium sized city on the coast. Here we celebrate our 100th day of travel, then there are the Easter weekend and hope tomorrow (Monday) to find new tires for the F 650.
From La Serena we have quite a few kilometers behind the back. We drove through the driest part of Chile, 400 years without rain.The roads are well constructed, the mining industry is running at full speed, after all. We also know "ripio negro" is earth with a layer of asphalt over it, drives great but beware of the pothols.We are now alsoon  the Dakar route and sleep several times at their camp sites.Through Antofagasta and Calama we still drive through arid stone desert to San Pedro de Atacama. at the Bolivian border. Here we collide almost literally back on Christa and Mathias (see Mendosa) and we decide to ride together in Bolivia. A wise decision, as it turns later onWe go through the border crossing on the Altiplano at 5040 meters. The formalities take much time. the customs men do not get as many people on the floor.. Meanwhile begins to dazzle us all 4 in the head and we get blue lips, the first signs of altitude sickness. the night falls long before we are at the camp. we drive another hour in the dark, but when the first bike hits the ground from due to the difficult roadeconditions we decide to camp beside the road. Still at 4700 meters we crawl with 4 in 1 tent that will keep us warm during the night. The next morning we woke up to Laguna Colorado, between the flamingos.  We buy extra petrol at the jeeps that the tourists on the Alti Plano mountains and go off again.The following days we get all possible road conditions to process. From simple ripio, over loose stones and deep desert sand over mud and numerous rivers without a bridge. The only thing we do not see is asphalt. Welcome to Bolivia.After the mighty Altiplano, surrounded by volcanoes and mountain peaks above 6000 meters, we camp on the salt flats of Uyuni. Again indescribable.And then after 4 days and 600 km of dirt road finally appearing in the first asphalt Bolivia.It brings us  to Chapalata and later in Ouro. Here we  experiencing a few wonderful days with our new Bolivian friends. La Paz and the Camino del muerte are waiting for us.
Some facts.gasoline. 9 bolivianos for foreigners, for locals 3 bolivianos. black market 5 bolivianos (0.5 euros). we buy at the regular stations in bottles and throw it behind the corner in our moto, sFood: 2 euros for a dishsleep 20 euro for 2 in the better hotels, with good parking. camping is unusual.coca leaves just for sale on the market.

Since a day or 4 we are in La Paz. A delightful town, with nothing to compare.After we left in the blissful quiet area of ​​the Thermes de Obrajes the choas of El Alto (suburb of La Paz) almost torture. But the immense vision that we then get on La Paz and its 6000ders are beautiful. Johan leads us unerringly to the hotel .We have motorcycles parked the hotel garage and explore the city on foot or by minibus. The first work here was to repair the PC so you can monitor again!So many updates: highlights of the weeks, many new albumsAnd then the surprise of the week, on our first evening here in La Paz, we step at 11.00 pm outside a pub. Passes us a gentleman and says Johan, "heuu, I know that sir." I look and trap of surprise! The Juul, fireman in Antwerp ! Here in La Paz. with a pint, we learn that he and Frank Mortelmans for a project within the framework of the "brotherhood" between Antwerp and Tarija. How small is the world. We go the next night with his 4 food, a good evening for many more great stories and facts about Bolivia.What do you think even more than in La Paz? The newspaper, containing a double page about Paragliding! We see our opportunity, Johan contact the local school and the next day we left. We have now both 3 flights on our track record writing with departure at 4500 meters and landings above 4000 meters. To your paragliding in the air to get here, you damn running and also the countries is completely different. Enjoy it!

www.halconeslapaz.com/es/
For all those in secure and reliable guidance to discover the paragliding in Bolivia, Halcones go to La Paz, to Edgar MartinYou can find them via the link above or at High Camp Bolivia.He guided us perfectly with our first flights in high altitude.

What a relief to the hustle and bustle of La Paz exit towards Camino del Muerte.We didn't managed to get gasolina in La Paz to gasoline , but fortunately we have enough to make it to Coroico . Hopefully we have more success there.
What can I write about the journey on the Camino del Muerte? Once the most dangerous road in the world and the only connection between this fertile valley and La Paz. For 5 years there is a new paved road and the old road promoted for tourism. The road is littered with crosses in memory of the deceased and in some places so narrow, that I wonder if I can pass it on the motorbike! Rock avalanches, waterfalls and cliffs, but look at the album.We take it easy, because the area is so beautiful that we all want to enjoy.
In Coroico we make a last effort to make the (very) steep road to take us to the eco-lodge "Sol y Luna" are. A true paradise for camping, with 2 swimming pools, beautiful hiking trails and everything a man needs not to have to leave. The plan to be here to stay 1 night soon runs out to 3 nights, but tomorrow we should really move on.We drive from Corioico back to La Paz, via the new route. Although that is paved, it remains to watch out. Signs with "attention, zona Geologica instable" predict unpaved passes, rough stones and many wells. The view again is breathtaking, literally and figuratively what it is back rise of 1800 meters to almost 4000 meters.It is also increasingly difficult to get gasoline  there. Most stations still refuse to sell in jerrycans and some simply do not at sell vehicles with foreign license plates. Once we can not fail to fill up to 9 bolivianos (1 euro), the next time we get him for 7 bolivianos and they want to fill our jerrycans anyway.

We camp in La Paz at the "Oberlander" a Swiss 3 * hotel with a place at the parking lot to put your tent.Then go through the volcano "Sajama", the highest peak in Bolivia, 6540 meters. We sleep at the foot of the mountain (brrrrrr) for the (closed) door to the refugio of the local mountain sports club, and attract the next day the border with Chile.
There, on top of the pass I catch a deep pit and go to the ring for suspension of my way! Luckily I have a spare and we can easily replace him in Iqique. The road to the coast is not a joke on the  map as asphalt and international road, but in reality the most part, still ripio, full of road works and more bad than good plays. Trucks loaded with gasoline to Bolivia to bring.
Long after dark we arrived in Arica, where we do not (open) site found. A willing Chilean shows us the way to "Sunny days" a delightful hostel to catch his breath after the Bolivian adventure.

Wonderfull

so were the last 2 days. We cross the Andes around the famous Aconcagua. With its almost 7000 meters the highest mountain in the Americas. We sleep at 1500 meters along the Rio Aconcagua and a busy truck route, through the young Andes (it's a warm night), breakfast at 2000 meters. Then longest s-path up to the famous Portillo ski paradise with its beautiful Laguna del Inca at 3000 meters.

 The border crossing is at 3200 meters. After each hairpin an even more impressive landscape. Then lovely lovely valleys through asphalt, not knowing what to choose: enjoy the scenery (and thus slow drive) or enjoy the delicious curves (and therefore faster ride with less emphasis on the landscape.

 Back sleeping at 2000 meters (brrrrr) in Uspallata and continue through the Routa SanMartin, the ancient road through the mountains of Argentina to travel to Chile. What a history! It meant rippio through to 3100 meters and then descend into the mighty valley and plain of Mendoza. Meanwhile we pass even the sources of Villacencio, now owned by Danone (also the owner of the entire nature reserve where we traveled ..). Hitherto, this was one of the finest routes in our journey, at least the most impressive! Try to understand through pictures or just come and see for yourself ... !

translation of the last 5 messages

A Walk in the Park ....For days and days we drivefrom one park to another. The mountain and forest trails alternate with beautiful tarmac roads between towns. "La Routa the 7 Lagos" is a dip between the great lakes, seasoned with clouds, sunshine, rain and rainbows prachige.From Barlioche to San Martin de Los Andes seems that weare in Switzerland , typical houses, planters, panaderia and typical artisan beer. Everything here is focused on the well deserved Argentine tourist.And then we move within the field of volcanoes. Off-road in volcanic dust, between trees and beautiful tropical deciduous forests. High volcanic peaks and craters, lakes, waterfalls, beautiful rock formations, small villages, local horsemen, birds and other animals are doing our regular stop. What a relief after thousands of kilometers of pampas. Here we can return the Chilean border. The ride is so relaxing, wonderful balance between sometimes difficult pieces and great off-road asphalt. The temperature is ideal for cruising.Camping is a surprise every night. In San Martin de Los Andes, it is a place behind the YPF gas station, which again is easy for our morning coffee. The next day we are in an apple orchard between the sheep and now we camp next to the natural hot springs of San Sebastian. Just bathe after the motorcycle ride in the evening once again, the morning before breakfast and again later.it is long ago that we were so clean.




Caught for smuggling.
For the first time in weeks we can pass  the Chilean border. We therefore seize the opportunity with both hands and choose Passo Mamuil Malal border post as off.The problems start with the customs. Normally you get in each country a document that allows you to use your own bike there to ride. On leaving Argentina gives you the document and, upon entering Chile get a new one. Not so this time. The custumagent asks me for a particular document, I do not have. And now?After some back and forth , what strumming on the PC, grumbling about "bad work" the Argentinian colleague is it still okay. He makes the document itself and we can continue.We already know from previous transitions about the strict food control. No dairy, meat, vegetables, fruit, seeds and nuts. But we have still a few times already succeeded in one and another to bring it about so I think I already know tricks . I put a bag of carrots and beetroot in a bag between my clothes. The previous times they do have to open my backpack and luggage, but the well tied garment they had no message. This time I am glowing with. Of course, I indicated that I have something to do. You must always do, otherwise you may incur a huge penalty. They ask me what it is and usually I show a few pieces of fruit and some cookies. Then we kindly ask that spot to eat.The food overzealous agent is not interested in my apples, the big bag must go in the be  RX. Of course, misery! I love me dumb, am dumbfounded when he takes the salute and say in my poor Spanish that I'd forgotten! At the same time I try to look as innocent as possible.Phew we come from a dirty look! Luckily he does not go through my backpack looking for the cereal, rice and I do not know what else it could not really about!Next time yet but what are more cautious.
Expedition Tour

We leave our spa so around noon and spheres even further by the volcano. In Chile you look a little bit from what route you take, or if you are sitting on the Pan Americana, a monotonous motorway linking the city with the other one connects. We buy groceries in Melipuco balls and then some more. For some random reason we end up back in the yard of a farmer, amidst the mountains, about half an hour from the nearest house.The next day we first restore the headlight of the 650, which is shaken loose and decide to cut through the park Conguillio driving. On the map is only a tiny path indicated.When we have an hour on the road, we arrive at the park rangers. With their 4x4 into the ditch. We stop and ask if they need help. Yes, or we may have a pull cable? No, surely? Yes, surely we do. Imagine their surprised faces, to 2 riders from the other side of the world, in the middle of nowere them can help them out of trouble.After a few attempts we get the pick-up free and then it's our turn to be surprised. Their luggage is a young cougar. They release him in the park.And it's not done with our surprise, we drive through a beautiful forest, lava landscape and to say the least "sporty forest roads." At the first river crossing, we still like a photo, after yet another we do not stop anymore  before we drive through it. The road leads to a higher plateau of lava and gives great images. And as usual when we are great moments, the battery of the camera and the camera flat. Still enjoy some of the pictures we took.At the end of our ride we picnic in the Mapuche Indian reservation and then make the trip down to Lonquimay.The headlight of the F 650 is loose again, so tomorrow we need to find a solution.
A stroll in the Andes
After our fantastic ride through the nature, we look at how we will travel Lonquimay. The map shows a "Sendero" full east by the Andes. We inform the toerischtisch service and the civil Guardio. After some back and forth telephone calls to a police station even closer, they give us a "go", it's about 30 km difficult terrain but to do ...We drive through untold untouched nature and the first half it is steep, but doable uphill. The road is not over a wide walkway. We enter through a tiny tunnel to the barrier of the private realm, where we may (as told the police). And then start ... Highway to Hell! The terrain is rougher and rougher, harder and harder. But rollback is no longer an option. When it finally begins to fall, it is virtually impossible for the heavy engines dignified to get down. I ga countless times against the ground and also to Johan his heavy GS down a few times let it go. Thankfully we left on time and we feel no time pressure. A friendly farmer with oxen shows us the way to a junction. A right man at the right place!When we finally reach the end of the private land reach the owners warn us. Further, there is a river, about 30 meters wide, 50 cm deep and no bridge. Why, no bridge? The police told us that the bridge was okay!! It's now 6:30 in the evening.When we arrive at the river I'm tired. How the hell am I going to get the heavily loaded engine on the other side of the Bio-Bio ?And then, by heaven sent, appear, 3 quad riders who know the area! (They confirm us that the only way to do quads and cross-engines ...) They help us to bring the baggage across the river and then johan swims the both motors over the river. Everything goes so fast, I can not even take photographs. I am so happy with the help of other people!The hardest part is behind us now, but the next town we get no more. All in all it was about 50 km and 6 hours we have toiled! The road remains difficult but "doable" and at 20.00 we stop at a fairly decent place to camp (the only for the next few kilometers as it turns out). The damage to the engines is fortunately limited. But the luggage suitcases have sustained significant dents ...Phew! As a reward, yet 1 can of beer in the bag, half a bottle of red wine and a field full of dry wood to start a camp fire going.When we sit a few hours later to muse, there is suddenly a strange figure in our campfire. We did not see or hear him coming, he is suddenly there. Without saying anything, he shakes  hands and just stays standing there. Hidden under its hood, the shepherd's staff firmly under the arm. He seems particularly interested in me. We're clearing silently, I hide behind the tent, he strompeld still around, still here by the fire and then disappears (after our first (empty) bottle of wine to have checked) as suddenly as he came. We decide then but around our tent for the night to erect a psychological barrier with dry underbrush. While around us the sound shotguns (there are wild animals) we fall into a fitful sleep .. After an otherwise "quiet" night we drive the last stretch to Ralco and enjoy doing it for a refreshing breakfast.Chile, the real stories from Issabel Allende and Pablo Neruda.
What have we learned?if sombody give you advice on the state of the road.- Ask if the person in the past week has been.- Ask if he / she ever drove a motorcycle.Is the answer to one of the 2 questions "no" then the advice is probably not worth much.
Pacific OceanAfter our adventure in the Andes, we are glad to be back in the civilized world. Meanwhile, the damage to my luggage bins repaired, the bikes cleans and the stiffness of our bodies.We bulbs quietly along the Pacific Ocean and enjoy the first long run of 3 days, without dirt road (or almost). Along the coast we see the consequences of the tsunami that passed here a few years ago still. Strangely also the signs with the routes to see, among the other signs.And best of these days ... we finally have a night without a dog barking. Silent Mouse is, for the first time since an uninterrupted night long!Along the way we get 2 stickers from Chilean motorcycling  with the Chilean flag gift! We have already 2 flags (Argentina & Chili) and there will be many added.

Jose de San Martin to Bariloche.

After the desolation of the pampas and Jose de San Martin R 40 brings us no time to the National Park Los Arceles. The mountains plunge is a real relief after thousands of miles pampas. In the park we met Andre, doctorate in infomaticawetenschappen. He bikes around in SA with the question what he will do more with his life. After 10 years of studying, he decided that he is much happier on his bike than behind his desk. We sleep on the lake and take a dip.
In Bolson we hold an evening stop at the local beer. nice beer!
On Saturday we blissfully cruising through the mountains on asphalt glansend to San Carlos de Bariloche, about the capital of this region. In winter, one of the largest skieareas of SA in the summer a cozy mountain village on a beautiful lake. Here we find covers for my front suspension, we are already in Buenos Aires looking for. The less dust in the rings of the front suspension, the less likely they leak. Prevention and maintenance of the engines remains very important here!
Sunday is rest and klusjesdag, keep you informed, motorbikes another look, what clothes repair, laundry .....

From los Antiguos to San Jose de San Martin

After a week of adventure,there  is a small brake. The Chilean border is closed because of fuel problems, and consequently also supply difficulties. The population is flocking to Argentina to do some shopping. (those who still to get petrol)
The tourists have been evacuated. We keep the situation an eye on the situation for 4 days  and there is no change in sight. After the weekend in Perito Moreno and 2 days in the town of Los Antiguos  (near the border) we are rested. Especially Los Antiguos is a wonderful "no-stess-town". A little local Werchter, 1 time a year there is a large cherry festival with around 40 000 visitors for the music concert.
Then we dive back into nothing. The Carretera Austral was on our wish list, but the situation in Chile forced us to continue on the R40. The big NOTHING. 400 km from one town to another, and between two burned-out car wrecks and a few dried carcasses. In the neighborhood of Jose de San Martin we are accompanied by the Gauchos (the Agentijnse cowboys).
Our entrance is the city is like 2 riders in the "far west" . 1200 inhabitants, no cat on the street (except a street dog), some suspicion when we go to the campground questions.
But slowly, the doors open for us. The grapevine is faster than we can walk and by the time we got to the shop, they know all of our arrival. We try each of the 3 shops in the village to buy something. Thus we keep everyone friend. -). In each store, the vegtables also almost sold out, because tomorrow is Thursday and then the supplier. ..
We sleep under the watchful eye of the police commissioner. He lives in a bungalow on the site. Every year he went to another village in the province transferred.

And the wind is back in action tonight.

What a week (Again) !!

What a week (again)!
From the departure Monday to Saturday we rolled from one Wow-moment in the other .
From Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine
After ripio and the rain of recent days is the way to the park a blessing. By happy coincidence, we drive a little wrong and end up on the north side of the park. This gives us a magnificent view on the  3 Torres, a  paradise for climbers and hikers. Moreover, a sweet Chilean guide instructed us to not pay the fee for the park, if we only want to drive troo. We take her advice to heart and end up at Lake Azul.  A free campsite on the edge of the park, a place on the lake, on the first-row for the vieuw on the paine-towers. The pictures speak for themselves. We enjoy the entire afternoon of the view, dine in the evening with Amando (el cheffe of service) and do it the next morning veeeeeery easy. At 2 pm we leave this little paradise. Along the way we are again very popular. Tourist buses stop next to our motobikes, people want pictures of us and the bikes, motorbikes and themselves and the whole story, they ask just no signature. It amazes us that people think so special about our journey, certainly the European and American toerists
.Torres del Paine to El Calafate
Here we make our first kilometers of the famous Pan Amerikan Highway (Routa 40). It is still a piece of asphalt that is not really simple to the imagination. We want to be smart on the 300 km ride to save time and fuel, so we take the shortcut in ripio instead of the longer paved road.We will have known it! In the past month we have never encountered such a difficult piece. As usual, the sun beginning to sink lower and lower and we see ourselves already in the middle of the pampas camp with wind "too much". After a lot of concentration, balance tricks and 2 hours and 50 km (at 7 am in the evening) I tell Johan that we are halfway. He is choking!But then comes the good news of the day, the map was not correct and after 75 km there appears again a delightful piece of asphalt! Thank God we finally arrived just before dark at 9 am at the camp (El Ovejero) in El Calafate. We share our campsite dinner with, another biker, Austin from Colorado. He is glad that to his simple sandwich  he can add something warm and we are pleased with the many good stories and tips that he gives us to go.El Calafate is to our hearts a delight. It is a fine tourist village, gateway to Glacier Perito Moreno. We move the next day ofrom the camp to a hosteria with a garden, with fruit trees and make it cozy for 2 days.The motors are freed from all their luggage and in the afternoon we shaz to enjoy the Perito Moreno Glacier. What a delightful motor ride! No wind, no single ripio just nice road, great weather and an ideal temperature!!The Glacier IS impressive. Everyone talks about it, and it is the attraction of Argentina and that made us a little suspicious. Usually such tourist attractions are over-hyped and not for us. But here, the exceptions prove the rule.We tried a little to capture in photos, but it is impossible. Just come and see.We leave the park as very lasts, beautiful, blessed, unbelievebel!The next day is a day for the "to do" list to work. A trip like this requires a very different institution than a trip in Europe for several weeks. All material must be lasting much longer and be looked at a lot harder. We lubricate the zippers, do some mending the clothes, put the spokes of the 650 additional fixed with tension straps, chain and check oil, buy new lamps, eat... we have hardly any time left for a few mails-chekings.In the evening with an aperitif we bump to Georges, we met in Puerto Arrenas. Greek GS-rider and for 14 months on the road. It's not just the appetizer, a few hours later, our bottle wiskhy it as the fuel for travel philosophical considerations.

From El Calafate to Perito Moreno
And then on to the North. El Chalten and Mount Fitz Roy are definitely on our wish list. At the junction El Chalten / Tres Lagos we stop. What to do? There is no gasoline in El Chalten, so we manage not to make the split to El Chalten and decide to go to the next gas station in Gobernor Gregory (500 km). We are to discuss when we have a scooter coming. I hold him upright and look straight in the eyes of Luciano, a sympathetic Colombian on his Yamaha 125 from Colombia to Ushuaia underway!He encourages us toto skip Roy Fits  because of the clouds and the difficulties related to the benzene. In the howling wind (it is really very windy in Patagonia!) We have a lot of good information and then we each make our way, he South .. we North.For two days we drive through the NOTHING, pampas and meseta with here and there an estancia. Their closest neighbors are easily 70 km away. We have a detour of about 80 km to make Gobernador Gregory refueling and staying overnight. The municipal campsite is also the gathering place for local youth and at 2.00 o'clock in the morning they let us enjoy the power from their car speakers. Done with sleep The world famous Pan-American Highway (R 40) does honor to his name provisionally. Large pieces of dirt road in all sizes and models. Loose sand, mud, deep river stones, hard and loose gravel, puddles of surprises in the middle .... interspersed with pieces of brand new asphalt. It gives us plenty of adventure and allows us occasionally to breathe. Who the real Routa Quarenta feeling still want to experience should be quick, within a few years this is nothing more than a "boring" piece of asphalt  from one touristic environment to another.Our precautions are here for sure, we drove the 5 liter extra at all and each have a 4 liter extra / extra reserve. It gives a comfortable feeling to be here with "too much" gasoline to drive around. Believe me,  you really don't want  to runout of fuell in this area! Finally we end up the next day in the town of Perito Moreno (not the glacier), along the way we crossed exactly 1 gas station (without petrol) encountered over a distance of 380 km. We meet 2 German and 1 Columbian lifter, they look jealous to our autonomous horses.Our plan is to the border with Chile over stabbing, but currently there is a "no-go" zone. There hasn't been a supply there for months by a conflict between the government and petroleum companies. This creates a food shortage and the population begins to be quite impatient. There are even argentine buses that evacuate stranded tourists. The latest reports indicate that next week maybe a solution would come .., we are still waiting for the moment.

Hospitality & rain

In Punta Arenas we get to see a sample of hospitality! On arrival there we hosed off our bikes in a carwash, they have  caught sea salt  and we want to wash is off as soon as possible. There we meet Elvis, a Chilean who is very interested in our journey. Quite unexpectedly he appears in the evening at our camp, with his wife, daughter and a bottle of good wine!
  the next day he  invites us  to dinner. We enjoy  a lovely warm cozy evening at home. Thanks!

 When we leave the next day, we stop a moment at the firehouse. The volunteer corps is here greatly assisted by French fire brigades and the NGO Pompiers sans Frontiers.
The rit to Punta Natales is cold & wet, but at the end we arrive dry at the campsite and the next day we are able to enjoy a lovely sunny sunday.

Cold and windy

We left Ushuaia on a cold but clear morning. The mountains around are covered with snow and the wind is back in action.
To get out of here there are three options, boat, airplane or via the same route back. For us therefore the latter. The photos (photo page) you see how that goes.
We drive to Rio Grande (200km) to  full up again  and then choose the alternative rout to Chile. In my experience the adventure begins now really. 350 km, rippio (gravel) with no gas station, or village. Only a border crossing at 50km.
We divide the ride in 2, we are able to do  about 100 kmin the evening, crossing  the Chilean border and then camping in the wild.
"In the morning we are awakened by special neighbors ... (See photo page)
Between the 2 borders  our first river crossing is a fact
The night is cold and the next day is even colder. The chill goes to zero. After another 250 km  we go for our first night in a luxury hot hotel ! Along the rippio (!) We accompanies by 3 Brazilian Harley-Davidson riders . in the evening the bargain for us a firm price discount on the hotel because they find our trip so incredible and they can not believe that we have sleped a whole month in a tent !
We must revise our opinion about HDO's, because they also came a big part along on the gravel.
 the luxury hotel is-not for long because we have to get up at 6.00 again to get the ferry.
In a rising sun we leave the sea-street  Maggalan direction Puento-Arenas!
Here we buy new bolts (and nut) and Independencia hospedaja find a nice place for some minor repairs and a hopefully peaceful camping eight ('t begin to fill up here ..).
The hostel is besieged by Belgians, Marcel and Evelyn who wander by ZA by public transport and Siska on her own continent by bike! RESPECT!

snow came from the moutains ...

and is now on the campsite :-(
No, do not exaggerate. This morning we had a couple of steep snow, but he's doesn't stay. Tomorrow they give better weather and we will leave as soon as possible. We would not end up like the Captain Gerlach of the Belgica, frozen for the entire winter.
We go to Chile, Puenta Arenas and then to the north.

The pictures of the city are on the website.

Thank you to everyone who occasionally sends a response, we read them with pleasure. It's good to know that people around the world think of us!

Also take time for some facts ....

Argentina has 1 km ² of land per capita. 1/3 of the people live in cities, however. Patagonia as one of the  regions with least living people in the world. You will have known if you drive through it.

The Rhea (kind of ostrich) and vizcachas (kind of llama) are funny but also dangerous inhabitants of the Pampas. You see them only when they are near your bike and they tend to jump unexpectedly to your wheels. When you stop to take a picture they look to you and are gone .

Currently, gasoline is a problem in the South, sometimes we are more than an hour to sit down. The latest reports said that the problem has become worse.

Along the whole coast you find the most diverse marine animals / birds.

In the cities you have lots of wide parallel one way streets, easy to find your way while difficult. For Europeans, it is inconceivable that such a wide street, but in 1 direction is used. Regular somersault we (almost) in a street in the wrong direction.

In Tierra del Fuego Indians used to live Yamana's. They died out by disease, contracted from the clothes they were the veroorveraars. Vermin and microbes remained so on their skin so they are ill. Before that they lived naked in this climate! Inconceivable to us.

Fun in Ushuaia

Somebody does not drive to the end of the world, and them directly back. So we spend a few days in the southernmost city in the world.

Who thinks that this is "the cave of Pluto" is wrong. The city breathes at first sight the atmosphere of a lively skiresort and there is lots to see and dto o. Casinos, Irish pubs to tourist trips to Antarctica. The latter cost you $ 3500. So it was not for us. When we want to drive at the world famous sign where Route 3 ends, it shows us that that will cost 17 ​​euros per person! That is almost half of our daily budget, so not for us. We take a photo at the free board in the city. A visit to the glacier is much more fun(see page highlight) and we visit the old prison that now serves as a museum. We are impressed, you do not already know how cold it is here in the winter and then in prison conditions have to live?
When we drive back, we zigzag streets and end up in different city districts. Beautiful new homes are between barrakjes and corrugated iron houses of chipboard. There is not really alive, even now in the summer, let alone in winter. Not to mention the social housing blocks that are also found here.


Tomorrow we continue our journey, or back? Because we can not really go much further he! Hopefully the snow-capped mountains from this morning are gone by then.

Finally back mountains and even forest!

The last 200km from Rio Grande to Ushuaia run as a train, we thoroughly enjoy.

What once seemed a only dream, suddenly appears.

No literary masterpiece  to describe this day . Just take a look

ps: I sleep in 2 sleepingbags, thermic underwear, a fleece and headcover and I love it!! :-)

From Comodore Rivadavia through San Julian to Rio Gallegos
Nazareno and Andrea gives us a warm welcome. Even before we shut down the engines  their door opens. Unbelievable how hospitable these people are. We hardly exchanged a few words with them in a gas station and now they offer their home to us like they have known for years. We will sleep in a  real bed for the first time in 2 weeks and the bikes are safe and well with the parents of Andrea. We explore the city and its surroundings and in the evening we have dinner at Paul and Jeanine. Their son does not want to move to Belgium, to school from 8.30 to 16.00?? No, that's not his thing. Here the children go to school from 8.00 to 13.00. And when he learns that boys his age around 20.00 hours sleep, no thanks!.After our Sunday rest day followed 2 days DRIVING DRIVING DRIVING. Kilometers of barren flat landscape of Patagonia. The wind blows hard and I sometimes struggle to keep the 650 on the track. Johan and his heavyweight GS goes a little easier. He rides often mileage in front of  me.About 30 km from  San Julian, we take an off-road option. Even  with luggage the bikes do fine. How do you describe the experience of a herd of wild horses that gallop along with your engine?And then again a wonderful surprise! Just before we drive up the campsite, we see the big truck off  Kurt & Cindy, our fellow passengers of the "Grande Africa". Two bottles of beer and a delicious left over meal later, we set up our tent in the front yard of their Mercedes truck. The picture speaks for itself Morning is back gasoline available, but able to move around the city. Eventually we leave after 2 hours of queuing, loaded with fuel and victuals for our next 400 km to Ushuaia.Halfway to Rio Gallegos we stop. A bag of hot coffee, winter liners in the motorcycle clothing, thick gloves, heated handle and we can move on. The temperature decreases by a kilometer.In Rio Gallegos we find a great campsite in the middle of an SME - zone but very clean with a friendly owner and a heated kitchen! That does sound after a day of driving 