A Walk in the Park ....For days and days we drivefrom one park to another. The mountain and forest trails alternate with beautiful tarmac roads between towns. "La Routa the 7 Lagos" is a dip between the great lakes, seasoned with clouds, sunshine, rain and rainbows prachige.From Barlioche to San Martin de Los Andes seems that weare in Switzerland , typical houses, planters, panaderia and typical artisan beer. Everything here is focused on the well deserved Argentine tourist.And then we move within the field of volcanoes. Off-road in volcanic dust, between trees and beautiful tropical deciduous forests. High volcanic peaks and craters, lakes, waterfalls, beautiful rock formations, small villages, local horsemen, birds and other animals are doing our regular stop. What a relief after thousands of kilometers of pampas. Here we can return the Chilean border. The ride is so relaxing, wonderful balance between sometimes difficult pieces and great off-road asphalt. The temperature is ideal for cruising.Camping is a surprise every night. In San Martin de Los Andes, it is a place behind the YPF gas station, which again is easy for our morning coffee. The next day we are in an apple orchard between the sheep and now we camp next to the natural hot springs of San Sebastian. Just bathe after the motorcycle ride in the evening once again, the morning before breakfast and again later.it is long ago that we were so clean.
Caught for smuggling.
For the first time in weeks we can pass the Chilean border. We therefore seize the opportunity with both hands and choose Passo Mamuil Malal border post as off.The problems start with the customs. Normally you get in each country a document that allows you to use your own bike there to ride. On leaving Argentina gives you the document and, upon entering Chile get a new one. Not so this time. The custumagent asks me for a particular document, I do not have. And now?After some back and forth , what strumming on the PC, grumbling about "bad work" the Argentinian colleague is it still okay. He makes the document itself and we can continue.We already know from previous transitions about the strict food control. No dairy, meat, vegetables, fruit, seeds and nuts. But we have still a few times already succeeded in one and another to bring it about so I think I already know tricks . I put a bag of carrots and beetroot in a bag between my clothes. The previous times they do have to open my backpack and luggage, but the well tied garment they had no message. This time I am glowing with. Of course, I indicated that I have something to do. You must always do, otherwise you may incur a huge penalty. They ask me what it is and usually I show a few pieces of fruit and some cookies. Then we kindly ask that spot to eat.The food overzealous agent is not interested in my apples, the big bag must go in the be RX. Of course, misery! I love me dumb, am dumbfounded when he takes the salute and say in my poor Spanish that I'd forgotten! At the same time I try to look as innocent as possible.Phew we come from a dirty look! Luckily he does not go through my backpack looking for the cereal, rice and I do not know what else it could not really about!Next time yet but what are more cautious.
Expedition Tour
We leave our spa so around noon and spheres even further by the volcano. In Chile you look a little bit from what route you take, or if you are sitting on the Pan Americana, a monotonous motorway linking the city with the other one connects. We buy groceries in Melipuco balls and then some more. For some random reason we end up back in the yard of a farmer, amidst the mountains, about half an hour from the nearest house.The next day we first restore the headlight of the 650, which is shaken loose and decide to cut through the park Conguillio driving. On the map is only a tiny path indicated.When we have an hour on the road, we arrive at the park rangers. With their 4x4 into the ditch. We stop and ask if they need help. Yes, or we may have a pull cable? No, surely? Yes, surely we do. Imagine their surprised faces, to 2 riders from the other side of the world, in the middle of nowere them can help them out of trouble.After a few attempts we get the pick-up free and then it's our turn to be surprised. Their luggage is a young cougar. They release him in the park.And it's not done with our surprise, we drive through a beautiful forest, lava landscape and to say the least "sporty forest roads." At the first river crossing, we still like a photo, after yet another we do not stop anymore before we drive through it. The road leads to a higher plateau of lava and gives great images. And as usual when we are great moments, the battery of the camera and the camera flat. Still enjoy some of the pictures we took.At the end of our ride we picnic in the Mapuche Indian reservation and then make the trip down to Lonquimay.The headlight of the F 650 is loose again, so tomorrow we need to find a solution.
A stroll in the Andes
After our fantastic ride through the nature, we look at how we will travel Lonquimay. The map shows a "Sendero" full east by the Andes. We inform the toerischtisch service and the civil Guardio. After some back and forth telephone calls to a police station even closer, they give us a "go", it's about 30 km difficult terrain but to do ...We drive through untold untouched nature and the first half it is steep, but doable uphill. The road is not over a wide walkway. We enter through a tiny tunnel to the barrier of the private realm, where we may (as told the police). And then start ... Highway to Hell! The terrain is rougher and rougher, harder and harder. But rollback is no longer an option. When it finally begins to fall, it is virtually impossible for the heavy engines dignified to get down. I ga countless times against the ground and also to Johan his heavy GS down a few times let it go. Thankfully we left on time and we feel no time pressure. A friendly farmer with oxen shows us the way to a junction. A right man at the right place!When we finally reach the end of the private land reach the owners warn us. Further, there is a river, about 30 meters wide, 50 cm deep and no bridge. Why, no bridge? The police told us that the bridge was okay!! It's now 6:30 in the evening.When we arrive at the river I'm tired. How the hell am I going to get the heavily loaded engine on the other side of the Bio-Bio ?And then, by heaven sent, appear, 3 quad riders who know the area! (They confirm us that the only way to do quads and cross-engines ...) They help us to bring the baggage across the river and then johan swims the both motors over the river. Everything goes so fast, I can not even take photographs. I am so happy with the help of other people!The hardest part is behind us now, but the next town we get no more. All in all it was about 50 km and 6 hours we have toiled! The road remains difficult but "doable" and at 20.00 we stop at a fairly decent place to camp (the only for the next few kilometers as it turns out). The damage to the engines is fortunately limited. But the luggage suitcases have sustained significant dents ...Phew! As a reward, yet 1 can of beer in the bag, half a bottle of red wine and a field full of dry wood to start a camp fire going.When we sit a few hours later to muse, there is suddenly a strange figure in our campfire. We did not see or hear him coming, he is suddenly there. Without saying anything, he shakes hands and just stays standing there. Hidden under its hood, the shepherd's staff firmly under the arm. He seems particularly interested in me. We're clearing silently, I hide behind the tent, he strompeld still around, still here by the fire and then disappears (after our first (empty) bottle of wine to have checked) as suddenly as he came. We decide then but around our tent for the night to erect a psychological barrier with dry underbrush. While around us the sound shotguns (there are wild animals) we fall into a fitful sleep .. After an otherwise "quiet" night we drive the last stretch to Ralco and enjoy doing it for a refreshing breakfast.Chile, the real stories from Issabel Allende and Pablo Neruda.
What have we learned?if sombody give you advice on the state of the road.- Ask if the person in the past week has been.- Ask if he / she ever drove a motorcycle.Is the answer to one of the 2 questions "no" then the advice is probably not worth much.
Pacific OceanAfter our adventure in the Andes, we are glad to be back in the civilized world. Meanwhile, the damage to my luggage bins repaired, the bikes cleans and the stiffness of our bodies.We bulbs quietly along the Pacific Ocean and enjoy the first long run of 3 days, without dirt road (or almost). Along the coast we see the consequences of the tsunami that passed here a few years ago still. Strangely also the signs with the routes to see, among the other signs.And best of these days ... we finally have a night without a dog barking. Silent Mouse is, for the first time since an uninterrupted night long!Along the way we get 2 stickers from Chilean motorcycling with the Chilean flag gift! We have already 2 flags (Argentina & Chili) and there will be many added.
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