What a week (Again) !!

What a week (again)!
From the departure Monday to Saturday we rolled from one Wow-moment in the other .
From Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine
After ripio and the rain of recent days is the way to the park a blessing. By happy coincidence, we drive a little wrong and end up on the north side of the park. This gives us a magnificent view on the  3 Torres, a  paradise for climbers and hikers. Moreover, a sweet Chilean guide instructed us to not pay the fee for the park, if we only want to drive troo. We take her advice to heart and end up at Lake Azul.  A free campsite on the edge of the park, a place on the lake, on the first-row for the vieuw on the paine-towers. The pictures speak for themselves. We enjoy the entire afternoon of the view, dine in the evening with Amando (el cheffe of service) and do it the next morning veeeeeery easy. At 2 pm we leave this little paradise. Along the way we are again very popular. Tourist buses stop next to our motobikes, people want pictures of us and the bikes, motorbikes and themselves and the whole story, they ask just no signature. It amazes us that people think so special about our journey, certainly the European and American toerists
.Torres del Paine to El Calafate
Here we make our first kilometers of the famous Pan Amerikan Highway (Routa 40). It is still a piece of asphalt that is not really simple to the imagination. We want to be smart on the 300 km ride to save time and fuel, so we take the shortcut in ripio instead of the longer paved road.We will have known it! In the past month we have never encountered such a difficult piece. As usual, the sun beginning to sink lower and lower and we see ourselves already in the middle of the pampas camp with wind "too much". After a lot of concentration, balance tricks and 2 hours and 50 km (at 7 am in the evening) I tell Johan that we are halfway. He is choking!But then comes the good news of the day, the map was not correct and after 75 km there appears again a delightful piece of asphalt! Thank God we finally arrived just before dark at 9 am at the camp (El Ovejero) in El Calafate. We share our campsite dinner with, another biker, Austin from Colorado. He is glad that to his simple sandwich  he can add something warm and we are pleased with the many good stories and tips that he gives us to go.El Calafate is to our hearts a delight. It is a fine tourist village, gateway to Glacier Perito Moreno. We move the next day ofrom the camp to a hosteria with a garden, with fruit trees and make it cozy for 2 days.The motors are freed from all their luggage and in the afternoon we shaz to enjoy the Perito Moreno Glacier. What a delightful motor ride! No wind, no single ripio just nice road, great weather and an ideal temperature!!The Glacier IS impressive. Everyone talks about it, and it is the attraction of Argentina and that made us a little suspicious. Usually such tourist attractions are over-hyped and not for us. But here, the exceptions prove the rule.We tried a little to capture in photos, but it is impossible. Just come and see.We leave the park as very lasts, beautiful, blessed, unbelievebel!The next day is a day for the "to do" list to work. A trip like this requires a very different institution than a trip in Europe for several weeks. All material must be lasting much longer and be looked at a lot harder. We lubricate the zippers, do some mending the clothes, put the spokes of the 650 additional fixed with tension straps, chain and check oil, buy new lamps, eat... we have hardly any time left for a few mails-chekings.In the evening with an aperitif we bump to Georges, we met in Puerto Arrenas. Greek GS-rider and for 14 months on the road. It's not just the appetizer, a few hours later, our bottle wiskhy it as the fuel for travel philosophical considerations.

From El Calafate to Perito Moreno
And then on to the North. El Chalten and Mount Fitz Roy are definitely on our wish list. At the junction El Chalten / Tres Lagos we stop. What to do? There is no gasoline in El Chalten, so we manage not to make the split to El Chalten and decide to go to the next gas station in Gobernor Gregory (500 km). We are to discuss when we have a scooter coming. I hold him upright and look straight in the eyes of Luciano, a sympathetic Colombian on his Yamaha 125 from Colombia to Ushuaia underway!He encourages us toto skip Roy Fits  because of the clouds and the difficulties related to the benzene. In the howling wind (it is really very windy in Patagonia!) We have a lot of good information and then we each make our way, he South .. we North.For two days we drive through the NOTHING, pampas and meseta with here and there an estancia. Their closest neighbors are easily 70 km away. We have a detour of about 80 km to make Gobernador Gregory refueling and staying overnight. The municipal campsite is also the gathering place for local youth and at 2.00 o'clock in the morning they let us enjoy the power from their car speakers. Done with sleep The world famous Pan-American Highway (R 40) does honor to his name provisionally. Large pieces of dirt road in all sizes and models. Loose sand, mud, deep river stones, hard and loose gravel, puddles of surprises in the middle .... interspersed with pieces of brand new asphalt. It gives us plenty of adventure and allows us occasionally to breathe. Who the real Routa Quarenta feeling still want to experience should be quick, within a few years this is nothing more than a "boring" piece of asphalt  from one touristic environment to another.Our precautions are here for sure, we drove the 5 liter extra at all and each have a 4 liter extra / extra reserve. It gives a comfortable feeling to be here with "too much" gasoline to drive around. Believe me,  you really don't want  to runout of fuell in this area! Finally we end up the next day in the town of Perito Moreno (not the glacier), along the way we crossed exactly 1 gas station (without petrol) encountered over a distance of 380 km. We meet 2 German and 1 Columbian lifter, they look jealous to our autonomous horses.Our plan is to the border with Chile over stabbing, but currently there is a "no-go" zone. There hasn't been a supply there for months by a conflict between the government and petroleum companies. This creates a food shortage and the population begins to be quite impatient. There are even argentine buses that evacuate stranded tourists. The latest reports indicate that next week maybe a solution would come .., we are still waiting for the moment.